Jason Millar: The idea of terroir is sacred, but is it helping us to communicate what truly matters?

Jason Millar's piece in Decanter challenges whether terroir has become so ubiquitous in wine marketing that it's obscuring what consumers actually care about. He traces how terroir went from being a disparaging term meaning 'taste of dirt' to becoming industry doctrine after the 1976 Judgment of Paris, and questions whether talking about alluvial marls and soil composition is really helping us sell wine or just making the industry sound pretentious.